Before you order

Q: Why should I buy sod from Act of Sod?

A: Not only do we pride ourselves on offering the lowest prices in the area, but our friendly staff has over 20 years of experience selling sod retail to residential and commercial customers. We have worked with the same grower for decades and understand the benefits of each variety. Our expertise allows us to provide answers that address your specific concerns and are committed to supporting you throughout the process-before, during, and after your purchase. You don’t even have to take our word for it-we have a variety of testimonials from satisfied customers and pictures of their results.

Q: How do I know how much sod to get?

A: The first thing you must do is measure the area of your yard. Sod is sold by the square foot in rolls that are 6 feet by 1.5 feet, so square yards must be converted to square feet. For rectangular or square areas, simply multiply the length by the width (in feet) to get your square footage.

For odd shaped areas, either break the area down into as many measurable rectangles and squares as you can, or measure the longest and widest points and multiply, remembering to round up.

It is recommended to add 5% to your final measured amount. This saves you from having to wait for more sod to be delivered, having to keep the bare yard dry while watering the area where sod is already applied and ensures your lawn has an even, healthy appearance.

Q: How fresh is your sod?

A: All of our sod is cut daily and delivered within 24 hours (from time of harvest) to ensure maximum freshness.

Q: I want to install my sod before it gets hot. Why can’t you guarantee delivery times?

A: Unfortunately, the majority of our customers all request early delivery times, making this request tough to accommodate. We always do our best but are subject to factors such as delivery routes, traffic and navigation issues, limited truck space and/or limited number of trucks doing deliveries on a given day, etc. To assist our customers with planning for installation, we always call the day before delivery and provide a two-hour window for delivery.

Q: How do I remove my old lawn?

A: There are several steps in the process of removing your old lawn and we recommend following all of them for your best long-term results:

   1. It sounds almost silly but the first step is to water and fertilize your old lawn. You want to make sure to remove all of the problem     weeds and plants along with the old grass and the only way to do that is to coax them into emerging.

   2. After your lawn is in growth mode, apply an herbicide such as RoundUp, following the directions on the package. You may need just     a single treatment to kill your old lawn and other growth, but it could take two or even three applications in some instances.

   3. After your old lawn is dead, you need to remove it. The quickest, cleanest way to do so is with a sod cutter, which can be rented f     From equipment rental companies or even many Home Depot stores. Be sure to remove all traces of grass/sod/weeds and dispose of     them.

   4. Next you will need to rototill your soil to break up the soil, including old roots, and prepare the ground to accept new growth, making     sure the depth is appropriate given your landscaping and sprinkler configurations. Usually 4-6 inches is an ideal depth. Remove any and     all clumps of old lawn, weeds, large rocks, dirt clods, etc. The idea is to get the ground as smooth as possible.

    5. Once you remove all debris, you will want to introduce fresh new fertile soil back into the ground. A compost/topsoil mixture is ideal     and it is recommended that you use anywhere from 3-6 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet. This new material will need to be rototilled     back into your existing soil to ensure that your new lawn will have a rich nutrient base for maximum health and performance.

           *If you are installing a new sprinkler system,, do so now, after all rototilling has been completed.

6. Rake away any remaining small debris and dispose of it. Continue to rake until your dirt area is as level as possible. Try to remove all low or high spots as water will either settle there or will quickly drain away from  them, leaving them more susceptible to drying and burning.

Q: My old lawn is out- now what?

A: You are now ready to prepare your yard for the sod. Follow these steps for the best possible results:

   1. Roll your soil with a sod/lawn roller to compact it and create a nice firm and even surface. This will ensure that everything settles as     evenly as possible over time. Rollers can be rented from the same equipment rental companies that rent the sod cutters. Aim for a     finished grade of approximately 1-1.5 inches below your sidewalks and borders.

   2. Apply a starter fertilizer evenly over your soil, either by spreader or by hand. There are many different brands of starter fertilizer out     there, including our own special mix, but just make sure the package says “starter” on it. Follow application directions on the package     but be sure not to use on windy days. Note: fertilizer does NOT need to be raked or tilled in. Right on top of your finished compacted     soil is perfect.

   3. Congratulations-you are now ready to install your new sod.

Q: Does the type of sprinkler system make a difference?

No, as far as one being better than another for your sod. However, different types of sprinkler heads do have differing amounts of water output. The rotary-style heads (Hunter, Toro, etc.) will put out less water in a given area than the pop-up “misting” style heads in the same amount of time. For this reason we highly recommend watering longer, especially in the first 2-3 weeks of your new lawn’s life, if you use rotary heads. In hotter temperature it is not uncommon to have to water new sod as many as 6 times per day for 10-15 minutes each time. The important thing is to make sure you have enough overlapping coverage of your entire lawn.

Q: Is it difficult to install?

A: No, not at all. You just pick up a roll, lay it on the ground and unroll. It’s that easy. You just want to be sure to “butt” the edges tight with no overlapping. Start at the longest straight edge and continue from there. Place each new roll up against the side of the previously laid roll, taking great care not to overlap rolls. To ensure a great looking lawn, be sure to stagger the seams when laying sod, similar to laying bricks. This prevents gaps in your lawn that stem from misalignment of rolls.

In very hot weather (85+ degrees), lightly water the sodded areas after you have installed 200-300 square feet. After all sod is installed, go over it with a sod/lawn roller. This ensures that your sod has sufficient contact with the surface underneath, as well as removing any air pockets. Make sure that the roller is filled no more than halfway with water; otherwise it will leave imprints in your sod. After rolling, water the sod until it is properly saturated, stopping before water pools on the surface.

Q: If I can’t get all of my sod installed the same day I receive it, is it ok to water it while it is still rolled up on the pallet?

A: No. Sod is a living, perishable plant and must be cared for properly. If you absolutely cannot install all of your sod within 24 hours, we recommend you follow these tips:

• Unroll the sod in another location and water, if practical.
• Place the pallet(s) in the shade.
• Break the pallet(s) down by taking off the top layers of rolls and allowing more oxygen to get to the bottom layers.

Because of all the nitrogen in the plant, sod will heat up and begin to ferment if left rolled up. Covering a pallet and/or watering the sod while rolled up, especially in the hot Central Valley weather, will only compound the problem.

CARING FOR YOUR SOD

Q: How often should I water my new lawn?

A: Water is by far the biggest determinant in how successful your new lawn will be. For the first two weeks following installation it is crucial that you water a minimum  of 3-4 times per day for 10-20 minutes each period, with the first watering in the early morning hours. In very hot weather or for sprinkler systems with low water pressure and/or rotary-style heads, you may need to water as many as 5-6 times per day for 30 minute periods. Look for your lawn to appear saturated but without standing pools of water on the surface. Pay very close attention to the seams and perimeter edges, as those are going to be the fastest to start yellowing/drying and are a sure sign that you are not providing enough water.

Q: Should I worry about fertilizing my new lawn?

A: Regular fertilization is one of the keys to your lawn’s long term success. Beginning one month after installation, you should fertilize monthly, skipping only July and August. If you notice a neighbor whose lawn always seems to be more healthy and vibrant in color than anyone else’s, chances are they fertilize frequently and consistently. Please consult our sod installation & maintenance page for more information on what types of fertilizers are best for your lawn and times of year to apply them.

Q: How soon can I mow my new lawn?

A: You can begin mowing your lawn one week following installation. For your first mowing, adjust your mower’s height to the highest setting (to cut the least possible amount). You can then gradually lower the setting with each subsequent mowing until you reach your desired height, but make sure you never cut more than 1/3 of the blade. Be sure to use a mower with sharp blades to avoid white or yellow blade tips and remove all grass clippings immediately afterward (or use a mulching mower).

Q: Do I need to aerate my lawn?

A: If you have some high traffic areas that seem  to go brown regularly, aeration may be required to loosen the soil compaction from the heavy traffic.

Q: How can I minimize damage to my yard caused by my dog’s urine?

A: If you have a female or immature male dog you may notice burned or discolored spots on your lawn developing. These spots are likely due to urine. If you have a mature male dog, it is unlikely that you will get urine-caused lawn spots because male dogs urinate on bushes, poles, and other landmarks. Dog urine is basically a salt solution, and, as such, contains ammonia. When a female dog urinates on your lawn, the foliage becomes coated with this salt solution and the salt draws moisture out of the grass, leaving the spot initially looking wilted and in a day or so looking brown where the grass has been killed. After the initial turf injury, the grass will green up in a circle around the dead spot as the nitrogen in the urine is taken up by healthy roots.

In the winter, there is moisture from the rain and temperatures are colder, so it is less likely that your grass will burn.

To minimize the damage, if you see a dog urinate on the lawn, immediately sprinkle the area with water to wash the salts off the foliage. This will dilute it and the burned spots will not develop. You may also set your sprinkler timer to come on every day for two or three minutes to wash off the salts after your dog goes out for its morning stretch.